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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.